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Rescue Desk

Fix common scale-model problems: causes, step-by-step fixes, what to avoid and the right tools.

  • 54 step-by-step fixes
  • Plain-language advice
  • No purchase needed

Cutting & Assembly

Sprue marks, seams, gaps and glue problems.

White stress marks and nub marks

Pale, cloudy patches where a part was cut from the runner. They come from crushed plastic, and a two-cut method plus light sanding prevents most of them.

Pale, cloudy patches where a part was cut from the runner. They come from crushed plastic, and a two-cut method plus light sanding prevents most of them.

Read the full guide: White stress marks and nub marks

Seams that keep coming back

A seam you filled and sanded that shows again under paint. Usually filler that shrank after sanding, or a seam that was never checked under primer.

A seam you filled and sanded that shows again under paint. Usually filler that shrank after sanding, or a seam that was never checked under primer.

Read the full guide: Seams that keep coming back

Mold lines on miniatures and parts

Fine raised lines where the two halves of the mold met. Easy to miss until primer or a wash catches them, easy to scrape off if you look early.

Fine raised lines where the two halves of the mold met. Easy to miss until primer or a wash catches them, easy to scrape off if you look early.

Read the full guide: Mold lines on miniatures and parts

Fogged clear parts

A white, cloudy haze on canopies, windscreens or lenses, usually around a glue joint. It is super glue vapor, and it is avoidable.

A white, cloudy haze on canopies, windscreens or lenses, usually around a glue joint. It is super glue vapor, and it is avoidable.

Read the full guide: Fogged clear parts

Super glue white residue

A white haze, powdery film or shiny glue smears around super glue joints. It can be polished, sanded or hidden, and glued cleanly next time.

A white haze, powdery film or shiny glue smears around super glue joints. It can be polished, sanded or hidden, and glued cleanly next time.

Read the full guide: Super glue white residue

Gunpla loose joints

Joints that flop and will not hold a pose. Worn ball joints and pegs can be built up with a joint-strengthening liquid in thin layers.

Joints that flop and will not hold a pose. Worn ball joints and pegs can be built up with a joint-strengthening liquid in thin layers.

Read the full guide: Gunpla loose joints

Broken Gunpla peg or snapped part

A peg sheared off in its hole, or a thin part snapped at the joint. It looks fatal, but a pin and a drop of glue usually brings it back.

A peg sheared off in its hole, or a thin part snapped at the joint. It looks fatal, but a pin and a drop of glue usually brings it back.

Read the full guide: Broken Gunpla peg or snapped part

Plastic glue not working on resin or metal

Plastic cement works by melting styrene together. On resin and metal there is nothing to melt, so the joint just sits there and falls apart.

Plastic cement works by melting styrene together. On resin and metal there is nothing to melt, so the joint just sits there and falls apart.

Read the full guide: Plastic glue not working on resin or metal

Warped plastic or resin parts

Barrels that curve, hulls that rock, thin resin parts that arrive bent. Many can be straightened with hot water and patience.

Barrels that curve, hulls that rock, thin resin parts that arrive bent. Many can be straightened with hot water and patience.

Read the full guide: Warped plastic or resin parts

Tiny parts flying off tweezers or getting lost

Pinch too hard and it shoots across the room; pinch too soft and it drops. Here is how to hold, cut and find small parts.

Pinch too hard and it shoots across the room; pinch too soft and it drops. Here is how to hold, cut and find small parts.

Read the full guide: Tiny parts flying off tweezers or getting lost

Sanding scratches showing through paint

The surface felt smooth, but the paint shows every scratch. Paint magnifies sanding marks, so they need to be gone before color.

The surface felt smooth, but the paint shows every scratch. Paint magnifies sanding marks, so they need to be gone before color.

Read the full guide: Sanding scratches showing through paint

Scriber slipped or panel lines wander

One slip and a straight line turns into a gouge. Fill it, sand it flush and rescribe against a guide.

One slip and a straight line turns into a gouge. Fill it, sand it flush and rescribe against a guide.

Read the full guide: Scriber slipped or panel lines wander

Planks cracking or gapping on wooden ship hulls

Planks that split at the bow or leave gaps along the hull. Soaking, heat-bending, tapering and fairing fix most of it.

Planks that split at the bow or leave gaps along the hull. Soaking, heat-bending, tapering and fairing fix most of it.

Read the full guide: Planks cracking or gapping on wooden ship hulls

Rigging sagging or fuzzy

Rigging that goes slack, sags between points or looks hairy. Thread choice and preparation fix most of it.

Rigging that goes slack, sags between points or looks hairy. Thread choice and preparation fix most of it.

Read the full guide: Rigging sagging or fuzzy

Painting & Airbrushing

Airbrush trouble, masking and a clean paint surface.

Airbrush spitting

Blobs, specks or an uneven stream instead of a fine mist. Usually thick paint, dried paint on the tip, a loose or dirty nozzle, or water in the air line.

Blobs, specks or an uneven stream instead of a fine mist. Usually thick paint, dried paint on the tip, a loose or dirty nozzle, or water in the air line.

Read the full guide: Airbrush spitting

Airbrush clogged or only spraying air

Air comes out but little or no paint. Almost always dried paint in the nozzle or around the needle, or paint too thick to flow.

Air comes out but little or no paint. Almost always dried paint in the nozzle or around the needle, or paint too thick to flow.

Read the full guide: Airbrush clogged or only spraying air

Airbrush tip dry

Paint drying on the needle tip as you spray, so the pattern gets narrower, spits or stops. Normal with acrylics, and manageable.

Paint drying on the needle tip as you spray, so the pattern gets narrower, spits or stops. Normal with acrylics, and manageable.

Read the full guide: Airbrush tip dry

Airbrush bubbling in the cup

Air is rising through the paint while you spray and the spray pulses or sputters. Air is getting into the paint passage somewhere it should not.

Air is rising through the paint while you spray and the spray pulses or sputters. Air is getting into the paint passage somewhere it should not.

Read the full guide: Airbrush bubbling in the cup

Airbrush bent needle

A bent or hooked needle tip makes the spray lopsided, spattery or hard to control. Slight bends can be honed; bad ones need a new needle.

A bent or hooked needle tip makes the spray lopsided, spattery or hard to control. Slight bends can be honed; bad ones need a new needle.

Read the full guide: Airbrush bent needle

Grainy or orange-peel airbrush finish

Paint that dries rough like sandpaper, or dimpled like orange peel. Either it dried before landing or it landed too thick to level.

Paint that dries rough like sandpaper, or dimpled like orange peel. Either it dried before landing or it landed too thick to level.

Read the full guide: Grainy or orange-peel airbrush finish

Paint runs and sags

Drips and sags where paint or clear coat went on too wet. Leave them alone until cured, then level and recoat.

Drips and sags where paint or clear coat went on too wet. Leave them alone until cured, then level and recoat.

Read the full guide: Paint runs and sags

Primer grainy or fuzzy

A rough, sandy or fuzzy primer coat that hides detail. Usually spray-can primer drying in the air because of distance, cold or humidity.

A rough, sandy or fuzzy primer coat that hides detail. Usually spray-can primer drying in the air because of distance, cold or humidity.

Read the full guide: Primer grainy or fuzzy

Paint rubbing off or not sticking

Paint or primer that rubs off on fingers, chips at edges or beads up on the surface. Usually a clean-and-prime problem, sometimes a handling one.

Paint or primer that rubs off on fingers, chips at edges or beads up on the surface. Usually a clean-and-prime problem, sometimes a handling one.

Read the full guide: Paint rubbing off or not sticking

Paint not covering (white, yellow, red)

Paint stays streaky or see-through after several coats. Some colors are naturally translucent, and the base color and thin layers matter.

Paint stays streaky or see-through after several coats. Some colors are naturally translucent, and the base color and thin layers matter.

Read the full guide: Paint not covering (white, yellow, red)

Dried or separated paint in the pot

Thick, lumpy, separated or skinned paint in pots and dropper bottles. Thickened paint is often fixable; solid dried paint usually is not.

Thick, lumpy, separated or skinned paint in pots and dropper bottles. Thickened paint is often fixable; solid dried paint usually is not.

Read the full guide: Dried or separated paint in the pot

Acrylic paint drying too fast

Paint skins over on the palette, goes gummy on the brush or leaves streaks because it dries mid-stroke. A wet palette and a few habits fix most of it.

Paint skins over on the palette, goes gummy on the brush or leaves streaks because it dries mid-stroke. A wet palette and a few habits fix most of it.

Read the full guide: Acrylic paint drying too fast

Brush lost its point (splayed bristles)

A detail brush that will not form a point any more. Usually paint has dried near the ferrule, and it is often fixable.

A detail brush that will not form a point any more. Usually paint has dried near the ferrule, and it is often fixable.

Read the full guide: Brush lost its point (splayed bristles)

Stripping paint from a model

The reset button when a finish has gone wrong. Pick a remover that suits the material, test first and scrub gently.

The reset button when a finish has gone wrong. Pick a remover that suits the material, test first and scrub gently.

Read the full guide: Stripping paint from a model

Paint lifting with the tape

Paint that comes away with the masking tape. Usually grease on the plastic, tape that grips harder than the paint, or paint that has not cured.

Paint that comes away with the masking tape. Usually grease on the plastic, tape that grips harder than the paint, or paint that has not cured.

Read the full guide: Paint lifting with the tape

Paint bleeding under masking

A fuzzy, leaky edge where the tape was, instead of a crisp line. Mostly tape choice, edge contact, paint that is too thin or wet, and spray direction.

A fuzzy, leaky edge where the tape was, instead of a crisp line. Mostly tape choice, edge contact, paint that is too thin or wet, and spray direction.

Read the full guide: Paint bleeding under masking

Masking canopies and curved surfaces

Canopy frames and curves defeat ordinary tape. A mix of fine-line tape, liquid mask and edge sealing gets crisp lines.

Canopy frames and curves defeat ordinary tape. A mix of fine-line tape, liquid mask and edge sealing gets crisp lines.

Read the full guide: Masking canopies and curved surfaces

Dust in the paint or varnish

Specks, lint and rough patches in a finished coat. Mostly a clean-space and static problem, so it can be fixed and avoided next time.

Specks, lint and rough patches in a finished coat. Mostly a clean-space and static problem, so it can be fixed and avoided next time.

Read the full guide: Dust in the paint or varnish

Clear coat cracking or paint wrinkling

Paint that wrinkles, crazes into fine cracks or lifts after you spray a clear coat or another color over it. A solvent and curing problem.

Paint that wrinkles, crazes into fine cracks or lifts after you spray a clear coat or another color over it. A solvent and curing problem.

Read the full guide: Clear coat cracking or paint wrinkling

Decals & Markings

Silvering, torn decals and getting them to sit down.

Decals silvering

Trapped air under the clear decal film makes it look silvery. A gloss base, a setting solution and careful blotting prevent it, and even dried silvering can often be fixed.

Trapped air under the clear decal film makes it look silvery. A gloss base, a setting solution and careful blotting prevent it, and even dried silvering can often be fixed.

Read the full guide: Decals silvering

Decals tearing or sticking to the tweezers

Decals that rip, curl or cling on the way from water to model. The fix is mostly soak time and moving the backing paper, not the decal.

Decals that rip, curl or cling on the way from water to model. The fix is mostly soak time and moving the backing paper, not the decal.

Read the full guide: Decals tearing or sticking to the tweezers

Decals not sticking or wrinkling

Decals that lift at edges, bubble, or sit on top of curves and panel lines instead of hugging them. A gloss base and a setting solution or softener usually fix it.

Decals that lift at edges, bubble, or sit on top of curves and panel lines instead of hugging them. A gloss base and a setting solution or softener usually fix it.

Read the full guide: Decals not sticking or wrinkling

Gunpla stickers peeling or not sticking

Foil and seal stickers that lift at corners or will not stay on curves. Clean, trim, press and top coat.

Foil and seal stickers that lift at corners or will not stay on curves. Clean, trim, press and top coat.

Read the full guide: Gunpla stickers peeling or not sticking

Weathering & Finishing

Washes, varnish and protecting the result.

Panel line wash stains

Dark blotches and tide marks instead of neat panel lines. Seal the paint with gloss or satin first, use a wash that will not attack the paint, and let it flow by itself.

Dark blotches and tide marks instead of neat panel lines. Seal the paint with gloss or satin first, use a wash that will not attack the paint, and let it flow by itself.

Read the full guide: Panel line wash stains

Patchy or uneven sheen

Glossy and dull areas side by side after mixing brush work, airbrushing, decals and washes, or matt varnish that dried shiny. One well-mixed, even final coat fixes most cases.

Glossy and dull areas side by side after mixing brush work, airbrushing, decals and washes, or matt varnish that dried shiny. One well-mixed, even final coat fixes most cases.

Read the full guide: Patchy or uneven sheen

Varnish turned white or cloudy

A matt or clear coat that dries with a white, frosted or milky bloom. Usually humidity, cold, or a coat applied too heavy. Often rescuable.

A matt or clear coat that dries with a white, frosted or milky bloom. Usually humidity, cold, or a coat applied too heavy. Often rescuable.

Read the full guide: Varnish turned white or cloudy

Weathering pigments not sticking

Pigments that fall off, disappear when sealed or look patchy. A matt surface and a fixer set them.

Pigments that fall off, disappear when sealed or look patchy. A matt surface and a fixer set them.

Read the full guide: Weathering pigments not sticking

Chipping looks fake or hairspray chipping not working

Chipping that will not lift, lifts in sheets or looks evenly spotty. Timing, thin top coats and restraint fix most of it.

Chipping that will not lift, lifts in sheets or looks evenly spotty. Timing, thin top coats and restraint fix most of it.

Read the full guide: Chipping looks fake or hairspray chipping not working

Printing & Resin

Sticky resin, support marks and getting prints ready to paint.

Sticky resin print

A resin print that stays tacky or oily after washing and curing. Usually dirty wash solvent, a rushed wash, or a cure that did not reach every surface.

A resin print that stays tacky or oily after washing and curing. Usually dirty wash solvent, a rushed wash, or a cure that did not reach every surface.

Read the full guide: Sticky resin print

Resin print support marks and layer lines

Bumps, pits and fine lines left after removing supports, and stepped layers that show through paint. Clean cutting, wet sanding and a filler primer solve most of it.

Bumps, pits and fine lines left after removing supports, and stepped layers that show through paint. Clean cutting, wet sanding and a filler primer solve most of it.

Read the full guide: Resin print support marks and layer lines

Resin print cracking or brittle

A print that splits days after it looked fine, or snaps when you flex a thin part. Usually over-curing, solvent soaking, or liquid resin trapped inside.

A print that splits days after it looked fine, or snaps when you flex a thin part. Usually over-curing, solvent soaking, or liquid resin trapped inside.

Read the full guide: Resin print cracking or brittle

UV resin or UV glue stays sticky

A tacky film on UV glue or resin after the light has done its job. Usually the top layer, the light or the layer thickness.

A tacky film on UV glue or resin after the light has done its job. Usually the top layer, the light or the layer thickness.

Read the full guide: UV resin or UV glue stays sticky

Is resin toxic? Resin safety basics

Plain-English basics for hobby resin: protect skin and eyes, ventilate, cure waste before disposal. General guidance only.

Plain-English basics for hobby resin: protect skin and eyes, ventilate, cure waste before disposal. General guidance only.

Read the full guide: Is resin toxic? Resin safety basics

Dioramas & Scenery

Grass, ground cover and layout scenery.

Grass that looks like carpet

Ground cover that reads as a flat green mat rather than real grass. Variety in length, color and density is the fix.

Ground cover that reads as a flat green mat rather than real grass. Variety in length, color and density is the fix.

Read the full guide: Grass that looks like carpet

Static grass will not stand up

Fibres that lie flat on the glue. Usually the applicator is not grounded, the glue skinned over, or the fibres were sprinkled without a static charge.

Fibres that lie flat on the glue. Usually the applicator is not grounded, the glue skinned over, or the fibres were sprinkled without a static charge.

Read the full guide: Static grass will not stand up

Diorama water cloudy, cracked or shrinking

Water effects that stay milky, crack or shrink back. Thin layers and full drying between them are the fix.

Water effects that stay milky, crack or shrink back. Thin layers and full drying between them are the fix.

Read the full guide: Diorama water cloudy, cracked or shrinking
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