Metallic paint is the hardest finish to get right with a brush. The flakes settle, the strokes show and the panel ends up patchy. That is why metallic markers have taken over Gunpla and mecha benches: uncap, press, draw. But "metallic marker" covers three different things, and mixing them up is how you end up with a dull gray part when you wanted chrome.
This guide sorts the markers we carry into the three groups that matter, tells you which one to pick for which job, and gives the application steps that actually protect the finish, including the one most guides get wrong: what to do before and after you draw.
Three kinds of metallic marker
| Type | Look | Markers we carry | Best for |
|---|---|---|---|
| Realistic metals | Steel, gunmetal, copper, aged gold | Stedi metallic dual-tip | Frames, barrels, vents, weathered metal |
| Candy and colored metallics | Bright, saturated metallic color | DSPIAE Super-Metallic (MKA), Ray Studio EX | Accents, thrusters, sci-fi color |
| Mirror and plated effect | Bright, reflective silver, gold, copper | 100Shiki electroplating pens | Small chrome-style highlights |
Two more sit in between: the DSPIAE 8-piece metallic acrylic pens (metallic black, silver, red, green, blue, purple, gold and gun metal) and the 0.7 and 2.0 mm metallic marker pens. Plenty of builders also know the Gundam Marker line as the reference point; the markers below are alternatives to compare against whatever you already use.
What to look for
- Tip type and size. A fine tip draws edge lines and panel breaks; a broad or chisel tip covers vents, thrusters and flat areas.
- Tip material. Sponge tips can leave uneven coverage; nylon tips usually flow more smoothly.
- Color range. Silver and gold are standard. Colored metallics are what give you candy-like accents.
- Cure time. Some markers need hours before you can handle the part.
- Water-based or not. Water-based inks are low-odor and easier on the bench.
The markers compared
Stedi metallic dual-tip markers: realistic metals
The Stedi metallic dual-tip markers pair a pointed tip (about 1 mm) for edges and rivets with a flat tip (about 1 to 2 mm) for larger areas. The water-based ink comes in eight finishes that read as real metal rather than candy: Space Aluminum (bright silver), Titanium Steel (steel gray), Tungsten Steel (dark gray metal), Gunmetal, Black Iron (black metallic), Zirconium Black (deep black), Red Copper and Dark Gold (antique gold). They work with dry brushing for more realistic wear, which makes them our first pick for frames, barrels and weathered mechanical parts.
You can buy single colors, the complete set of eight, or the complete set plus two clear varnish pens (one gloss, one matt).
DSPIAE Super-Metallic (MKA): the widest color range
The DSPIAE Super-Metallic markers use a nylon tip with a self-leveling metallic formula. Each marker has two interchangeable nylon tips: a 0.5 mm fine tip for edges and a 2.0 mm broad tip for larger surfaces, with the spare stored inside the cap. There are 12 colors: red, orange, yellow, chartreuse, green, cyan, blue, purple, magenta, gold, silver and bronze, sold as singles or as the complete 12-pen set.
Two details matter. The paint can be extracted and thinned 1:0.5 to spray through an airbrush, and Chrome Silver can be sprayed undiluted. And plan for patience: shake, press the tip to prime, paint in long single-direction strokes, let the paint self-level for about 10 seconds, then leave it about 12 hours to cure before handling.
Ray Studio EX: strong coverage over dark bases
The Ray Studio EX markers lay down an electroplated-looking metallic in one or two passes with no thinning. The fine tip is a hard 1.0 mm point, and the chisel tip covers 1.0 to 2.0 mm for flat areas, vents and thruster interiors. Set A holds five warm and green metallics (gold, red, orange, deep green, light green), Set B five cool ones (pink, purple, cyan, blue, dark blue), and Set AB all ten. The ink is water-resistant once dry and strong enough to cover dark base colors.
100Shiki electroplating pens: the mirror group
The water-based electroplating pens come in three finishes: Mirror Silver, Mirror Gold and Mirror Copper, or a bundle of all three. This is the group to reach for when you want a reflective, chrome-style highlight on a small area. Use it the way the next section describes, because this is the finish that suffers most from a bad base.
Other metallic pens
The DSPIAE 8-piece set is an easy uncap-and-paint option with an ergonomic handle. The 0.7 / 2.0 mm metallic pens come in a 0.7 mm pointed tip, a 2 mm round tip, or a set with both.
Quick picks
| You want | Pick |
|---|---|
| Realistic gunmetal, steel or copper | Stedi metallic dual-tip |
| The most colors, with two tip sizes per pen | DSPIAE Super-Metallic |
| Dense coverage with a hard fine tip | Ray Studio EX |
| A mirror silver, gold or copper highlight | 100Shiki electroplating |
| Metals you can airbrush later | DSPIAE Super-Metallic (thin 1:0.5) |
How to get a clean metallic finish
Case 1: colored and realistic metallics
These work on clean plastic. Wash the part, let it dry, and remove any visible mold lines or nub marks before you draw. Shake the marker, prime the tip on scrap, then lay down long, single-direction strokes. Avoid cross-strokes: they lift the first layer and leave streaks. Two thin passes beat one heavy one.
Case 2: chrome and mirror finishes
Do not sand the part before a mirror finish. Chrome-style inks need a base that is smooth and glossy, ideally gloss black. Sanding the part dulls the surface, and the metallic ink can only look as shiny as what is underneath it. If a part has flaws, fix them first, then prime and gloss-coat it black, let that cure, and only then draw.
- Prepare the part: remove gate marks and mold lines, then prime and gloss-coat black.
- Let the base cure fully.
- Apply the marker in a single smooth pass and let it level.
- Do not go back over it while wet; touching up half-dry ink is how you get cloudy patches.
Sealing: the step that dulls the shine
A top coat protects the finish, but almost every clear coat dulls a chrome-style effect, because it adds a layer between the metal flakes and your eye. Our rule: seal only the parts that will be handled, and accept a little less shine. Leave display-only highlights unsealed. The Mo Shi Tools clear varnish pen is a water-based clear coat in a pen, safe over acrylics and suitable for plastic, resin and 3D-printed parts. Gloss goes down before decals; matt is the last coat and kills the shine, so avoid it on metal accents unless you want them subdued. Test on a spare part before sealing anything you care about.
Where metallics fit in your build order
Most of the trouble with markers comes from doing things in the wrong order. A sequence that works on Gunpla and mecha kits:
- Cut, clean and fix flaws. Remove nubs and mold lines on the parts you will paint. A shiny metallic ink magnifies every scratch; a matt gray plastic hides them.
- Base coat where needed. Chrome and mirror effects need the gloss black base described above. Plain metallics can go straight onto clean plastic, but a dark base gives deeper, richer metal.
- Draw the metallic. Do it on loose parts rather than assembled ones, so you can rest the part somewhere it cannot touch anything while it cures.
- Panel line and weather. Do these after the metallic has fully cured, and test your liner on a hidden spot first so you know it will not smear the ink. Wipe, do not scrub.
- Seal only what needs it. Handled parts like hand grips and joints get a coat; display-only highlights stay bare.
A small point that saves frustration: draw a swatch on a spare sprue or a scrap part the same plastic color as your build and keep it beside you. Metallic inks shift in tone depending on what is under them, and your swatch tells you whether a second pass will help before you commit to the visible part.
What most guides get wrong
Almost every roundup says "clean and lightly sand the part, then apply". That advice is right for paint that needs a bite to hold on to, and wrong for mirror-style inks, which need a smooth gloss base to look like chrome. The second common miss is the clear coat: most guides tell you to seal everything, without warning that sealing a chrome-style highlight usually costs you the shine you just worked for. And the third is claiming that one marker is the best. It is not: a steel-look marker is great on a gun barrel and wrong for a magenta thruster. Pick by finish, not by hype.
Common mistakes
- Sanding before a mirror finish. It makes it duller, not better.
- Going back over wet ink. Leave it to level.
- Handling too soon. Allow the full cure time. For the DSPIAE markers that is about 12 hours.
- Using a matt coat on a metal accent. It removes the very sheen you drew.
- Skipping a test swatch. Colors look different on gray plastic, white plastic and a black base.
For smoothing parts before drawing, see our guide to sanding scale models and the complete tools guide.
FAQ
Do I need to sand the part before using a metallic marker?
For colored metallics on plastic, clean the part and remove visible flaws. For chrome or mirror finishes, do not sand the surface; use a smooth gloss black base instead.
Will a clear coat ruin a mirror finish?
It will usually dull it. Seal only parts that get handled, test first, and expect less shine.
Which metallic marker is best for Gunpla?
For realistic steels and coppers, Stedi. For the widest range of colors, DSPIAE Super-Metallic. For a mirror highlight, the 100Shiki pens.
Can I airbrush metallic marker paint?
The DSPIAE Super-Metallic ink can be extracted and thinned 1:0.5 to spray, and its Chrome Silver can be sprayed undiluted.